{"id":4746,"date":"2019-08-30T11:33:09","date_gmt":"2019-08-30T03:33:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/arthistorystrolls.com\/?p=4746"},"modified":"2020-09-25T19:13:06","modified_gmt":"2020-09-25T11:13:06","slug":"%e9%ab%98%e6%9e%95%e9%9b%a3%e7%9c%a0%ef%bc%9a-%e5%be%9e%e6%97%a5%e6%9c%ac%e6%89%8b%e5%b7%a5%e4%b8%8a%e8%89%b2%e8%9b%8b%e7%99%bd%e7%85%a7%e7%89%87%e6%8e%a2%e6%9d%b1%e6%96%b9%e7%9d%a1%e7%be%8e%e4%ba%ba","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/arthistorystrolls.com\/?p=4746","title":{"rendered":"\u9ad8\u6795\u96e3\u7720\uff1a \u5f9e\u65e5\u672c\u624b\u5de5\u4e0a\u8272\u86cb\u767d\u7167\u7247\u63a2\u6771\u65b9\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u93e1\u982d\u80cc\u5f8c\u7684\u9178\u695a"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u6587 \/ \u5f35\u7dad\u664f<\/p>\n

\"(\u88c1\u526a)<\/a>
\u4f5a\u540d\uff0c\u300a\u5ba4\u5167\uff1a\u5348\u7761\u300b\uff0c1880-1889\u5e74\uff0c\u86cb\u767d\u76f8\u7d19\u624b\u5de5\u4e0a\u8272\uff0c\u7d10\u7d04\u516c\u5171\u5716\u66f8\u9928\u85cf\u3002The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection, The New York Public Library. (1880-1889). Interior of a house: afternoon resting.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u4f60\u77a7\u5436\uff01\u90a3\u512a\u96c5\u7684\u7761\u76f8\uff0c\u5f77\u5f7f\u6574\u500b\u4e16\u754c\u6084\u6084\u5730\u96a8\u5979\u9032\u5165\u5922\u9109\uff0c\u6642\u9593\u51dd\u6eef\u5728\u4ee4\u4eba\u5c4f\u606f\u7684\u6b64\u523b\u7f8e\u597d\u3002\u84c6\u5b50\u524d\u5e7e\u672c\u7ffb\u958b\u7684\u66f8\u548c\u4e00\u65c1\u7684\u8336\u5177\uff0c\u6697\u793a\u8457\u9019\u4f4d\u512a\u96c5\u5973\u6027\u5348\u61a9\u524d\u5f9e\u4e8b\u7684\u95b1\u8b80\u8207\u8336\u9053\u6d3b\u52d5\uff0c\u907a\u7f6e\u84c6\u4e0a\u7684\u9577\u7159\u7ba1\uff08\u304d\u305b\u308b\uff09\u3001\u6795\u908a\u9577\u65b9\u5f62\u884c\u71c8\uff08\u3042\u3093\u3069\u3093\uff09\u3001\u7f8e\u4eba\u8eab\u7684\u5f8c\u5c4f\u98a8\u7b49\u3002\u9019\u4e9b\u5ba4\u5167\u7a7a\u9593\u7684\u6587\u5316\u5143\u7d20\u5728\u8a31\u591a\u8868\u73fe\u300c\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u300d\u7684\u65e5\u672c\u624b\u5de5\u4e0a\u8272\u86cb\u767d\u7167\u7247\u4e2d\u983b\u983b\u51fa\u73fe\u3002<\/p>\n

\u5979\u5011\u771f\u7684\u9ad8\u6795\u7121\u6182\u55ce\uff1f\u9019\u662f\u771f\u6b63\u8a98\u767c\u7b46\u8005\u8208\u8da3\u7684\u554f\u984c\u3002<\/p>\n

\u512a\u96c5\u7684\u5973\u5b50\u5074\u8457\u8eab\uff0c\u5118\u7ba1\u7a7f\u8457\u548c\u670d\uff0c\u4e5f\u63a9\u84cb\u4e0d\u4e86\u96b1\u7d04\u900f\u51fa\u7684\u8eab\u9ad4\u66f2\u7dda\u3002\u5979\u7684\u7761\u59ff\u770b\u4f3c\u5f9e\u5bb9\u4e0d\u8feb\uff0c\u4f46\u8868\u73fe\u51fa\u4f86\u7684\u7f8e\u537b\u53c8\u662f\u90a3\u9ebc\u5c0f\u5fc3\u7ffc\u7ffc\u3002\u5979\u9838\u5b50\u4e0a\u9760\u8457\u7684\u6b63\u662f\u88ab\u7a31\u70ba\u300c\u7bb1\u6795\u300d\uff08\u306f\u3053\u307e\u304f\u3089<\/em>\uff09\u7684\u6728\u88fd\u9ad8\u6795\uff0c\u9019\u7a2e\u6795\u982d\u666e\u904d\u88ab\u65e5\u672c\u85dd\u5993\u6240\u4f7f\u7528\u3002\u4ee5\u5be6\u7528\u6027\u4f86\u8aaa\uff0c\u7bb1\u6795\u662f\u70ba\u4e86\u85dd\u5993\u5728\u7761\u7720\u6642\u4ecd\u80fd\u7dad\u6301\u597d\u4e0d\u5bb9\u6613\u76e4\u597d\u7684\u9aee\u578b\u3002\u85dd\u5993\u7684\u9aee\u578b\u6975\u70ba\u8907\u96dc\uff0c\u6c5f\u6236\u6642\u671f\uff081603\u20131867\uff09\u6d41\u884c\u7684\u50b3\u7d71\u85dd\u5993\u9aee\u578b\u662f\u4e00\u7a2e\u88ab\u7a31\u70ba\u300c\u5cf6\u7530\u9af7\u300d\uff08\u3057\u307e\u3060\u307e\u3052\uff09\u7684\u5305\u982d\u9aee\u578b\uff0c\u68b3\u5316\u9019\u7a2e\u9aee\u578b\u5f80\u5f80\u9700\u8981\u8017\u8cbb\u6578\u5c0f\u6642\u751a\u81f3\u662f\u4e00\u6574\u5929\u3002<\/p>\n

\"(\u88c1\u5207)<\/a>
\u4f5a\u540d\uff0c\u300a\u5728\u65e5\u5f0f\u88ab\u8925\u5c31\u5be2\u7684\u5973\u5b69\u5011\u300b\uff0c1890-1899\u5e74\uff0c\u86cb\u767d\u76f8\u7d19\u624b\u5de5\u4e0a\u8272\uff0c\u7d10\u7d04\u516c\u5171\u5716\u66f8\u9928\u85cf\u3002The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection, The New York Public Library. (1890-1899). The Sleeping Girls in Japanese Bed.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u9664\u4e86\u55ae\u4e00\u85dd\u5993\u7684\u7761\u5bb9\u7167\uff0c\u5c1a\u6709\u540c\u6642\u8868\u73fe\u5169\u540d\u85dd\u5993\u7761\u8c8c\u7684\u86cb\u767d\u7167\u7247\u3002\u6210\u5c0d\u7684\u85dd\u5993\u88f9\u8457\u88ab\u8925\u5165\u7761\uff0c\u56e0\u6b64\u5979\u5011\u7684\u8eab\u5f62\u4e26\u4e0d\u5916\u986f\u3002\u300a\u5728\u65e5\u5f0f\u88ab\u8925\u5c31\u5be2\u7684\u5973\u5b69\u5011\u300b\u4e2d\uff0c\u5169\u540d\u85dd\u5993\u9760\u8457\u7bb1\u6795\uff0c\u8eab\u8986\u56db\u89d2\u7684\u300c\u5e03\u56e3\u300d\uff08\u3076\u3068\u3093\uff09\uff0c\u6795\u908a\u659c\u7f6e\u7159\u7ba1\uff0c\u80cc\u666f\u7531\u5e7e\u7247\u7a31\u4f5c\u300c\u969c\u5b50\u300d\uff08\u3057\u3087\u3046\u3058\uff09\u7684\u65e5\u5f0f\u62c9\u9580\u92ea\u6392\u800c\u6210\uff0c\u71df\u9020\u51fa\u5ba4\u5167\u7684\u7a7a\u9593\u666f\u89c0\u3002\u53e6\u5916\u5169\u4ef6\u4f5c\u54c1\u300a\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u300b\u4ee5\u53ca\u300a\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u5011\u300b\uff0c\u540c\u6a23\u4ee5\u4e8c\u540d\u85dd\u5993\u5165\u93e1\uff0c\u4f46\u5979\u5011\u8eab\u4e0a\u6240\u62ab\u84cb\u7684\u662f\u88ab\u7a31\u4f5c\u300c\u63bb\u5dfb\u300d\uff08\u304b\u3044\u307e\u304d\uff09\u7684\u542b\u8896\u591c\u670d\u6027\u5be2\u88ab\u3002\u300a\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u300b\u4e2d\uff0c\u84c6\u5b50\u65c1\u653e\u8457\u8336\u5177\u8207\u7159\u7ba1\u3002\u300a\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u5011\u300b\u7684\u80cc\u666f\u61f8\u639b\u8457\u66f8\u756b\u3001\u5c4f\u98a8\uff0c\u8207\u300a\u5ba4\u5167\uff1a\u5348\u7761\u300b\u4e00\u4f5c\uff0c\u91dd\u5c0d\u5ba4\u5167\u6587\u5316\u7a7a\u9593\u7684\u71df\u9020\u8457\u540c\u6a23\u5be7\u975c\u7684\u8abf\u6027\u3002<\/p>\n

\"Felice<\/a>
Felice Beato\uff0c\u300a\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u300b\uff0c1870-1879\u5e74\uff0c\u86cb\u767d\u76f8\u7d19\u624b\u5de5\u4e0a\u8272\uff0c\u7d10\u7d04\u516c\u5171\u5716\u66f8\u9928\u85cf\u3002The Miriam and Ira D. Wallach Division of Art, Prints and Photographs: Photography Collection, The New York Public Library. (1870-1879). Sleeping beauties<\/em>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
\"3774080089_5814208350_o\"<\/a>
\u4f5a\u540d\uff0c\u300a\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\u5011\u300b\uff0c1880-1890\u5e74\uff0c\u86cb\u767d\u76f8\u7d19\u624b\u5de5\u4e0a\u8272\u3002\uff08\u5716\u7247\u7248\u6b0a: Collection Spaarnestad Photo\/Het Leven\uff09Sleeping Women<\/em>, 1880-1890, hand-colored albumen print.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u7761\u7720\uff0c\u662f\u5973\u6027\u79c1\u5bc6\u7684\u65e5\u5e38\u30021876-1888\u5e74\u9593\uff0c\u5728\u6cd5\u570b\u51fa\u520a\u7684\u77f3\u7248\u756b\u300a\u65e5\u672c\u5973\u4eba\u300b\u4e2d\u63cf\u7e6a\u8457\u65e5\u672c\u5973\u6027\u7684\u5404\u5f0f\u751f\u6d3b\u60c5\u72c0\uff0c\u5176\u4e0a\u65b9\u6b63\u4e2d\u592e\u7684\u63d2\u5716\u7d0d\u5165\u4e86\u6210\u5c0d\u5165\u7720\u7684\u85dd\u5993\u3002\u85dd\u5993\u7761\u59ff\u7684\u5f71\u50cf\u6240\u860a\u542b\u7684\u6587\u5316\u8b70\u984c\u66f4\u662f\u6df1\u6c89\u3002\u4e00\u540d\u85dd\u5993\u7684\u990a\u6210\u6975\u5176\u4e0d\u6613\uff0c\u5118\u7ba1\u65e2\u6709\u6587\u737b\u672a\u80fd\u63d0\u4f9b\u6c5f\u6236\u6216\u660e\u6cbb\u6642\u4ee3(1868-1912)\u85dd\u5993\u7684\u73fe\u8eab\u8aaa\u6cd5\uff0c\u4f46\u85dd\u5993\u7684\u50b3\u7d71\u8207\u6b77\u53f2\u5ef6\u7e8c\u81f3\u4eca\u3002\u4eac\u90fd\u7947\u5712\u7684\u50b3\u5947\u85dd\u5993\u5ca9\u5d0e\u5cf0\u5b50\uff08Mineko Iwasaki, 1949-\uff09\u5728\u5176\u81ea\u50b3Geisha: A Life<\/em>\uff082002\uff09\u4e2d\u63cf\u8ff0\uff1a\u300c\u70ba\u4e86\u7dad\u6301\u9aee\u578b\uff0c\u6211\u7761\u5728\u4e00\u500b\u7a84\u5c0f\u588a\u5b50\u7684\u9577\u65b9\u5f62\u6728\u88fd\u6f06\u6795\u3002\u525b\u958b\u59cb\u6728\u6795\u8b93\u6211\u7121\u6cd5\u5165\u7761\uff0c\u5f8c\u4f86\u6211\u4fbf\u5f88\u5feb\u7fd2\u6163\u4e86\u3002\u9019\u5c0d\u5176\u4ed6\u5973\u5b69\u5011\u4f86\u8aaa\u662f\u7279\u5225\u96e3\u7684\u4e8b\u3002\u7f6e\u5c4b\u6709\u500b\u8a23\u7ac5\u8b93\u6211\u5011\u5728\u591c\u9593\u4e0d\u6703\u79fb\u52d5\u6795\u982d\u3002\u4f8d\u5973\u5011\u6703\u5728\u6795\u908a\u5468\u570d\u7051\u4e0a\u7c73\u7ce0\u3002\u5982\u679c\u6709\u5973\u5b69\u79fb\u52d5\u6795\u982d\uff3b\u5728\u6b64\u610f\u8b02\u843d\u6795\u3015\uff0c\u4e00\u4e9b\u7c73\u7ce0\u5247\u6703\u50cf\u81a0\u6c34\u822c\u9ecf\u8457\u5728\u5176\u9aee\u6cb9\u4e4b\u4e0a\uff0c\u7b2c\u4e8c\u5929\u65e9\u6668\u5979\u5c31\u5fc5\u9808\u7121\u5948\u5730\u518d\u6b21\u56de\u8a2a\u9aee\u85dd\u5e2b\u3002<\/span>\u300d[1]<\/a>\u7761\u5728\u6258\u9ad8\u7684\u7bb1\u6795\u4e0a\uff0c\u4e0d\u50c5\u6703\u9020\u6210\u80a9\u9838\u58d3\u529b\uff0c\u66f4\u9650\u5236\u7761\u7720\u59ff\u52e2\uff0c\u9019\u6a23\u56b4\u683c\u7684\u8a13\u7df4\u990a\u6210\u4e26\u975e\u4e00\u671d\u4e00\u5915\u53ef\u5c31\uff0c\u4e5f\u975e\u5e38\u4eba\u6240\u80fd\u4ee5\u5fcd\u53d7\u3002<\/p>\n

\"Art<\/a>
\u300a\u65e5\u672c\u5973\u4eba\u300b\uff0c1876-1888\u5e74\uff0c\u77f3\u7248\u756b\uff0cDaniel Urrabieta Vierge\u7e6a\u5716\u3001Firmin Didot\u5370\u88fd\u3002Art and Picture Collection, The New York Public Library. (1876-1888). Japanese Women<\/em>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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\u670d\u98fe\u672c\u8eab\u662f\u91cd\u8981\u7684\u6587\u5316\u7b26\u865f\u3002\u548c\u670d\uff08\u308f\u3075\u304f\uff09\u8207\u6d0b\u670d\uff08\u3088\u3046\u3075\u304f<\/em>\uff09\uff0c\u572819\u4e16\u7d00\u5f8c\u534a\u671f\u7684\u65e5\u672c\u8c61\u5fb5\u6771\u897f\u65b9\u6587\u5316\u4e0a\u7684\u5206\u91ce\u3002\u660e\u6cbb\u6642\u4ee3\uff0c\u8a31\u591a\u7537\u6027\u88dd\u626e\u9010\u6f38\u8f49\u8b8a\u70ba\u897f\u5f0f\uff0c\u4ed6\u5011\u88ab\u5f62\u5851\u6210\u4ee3\u8868\u529f\u80fd\u548c\u897f\u65b9\u7406\u6027\u7684\u6a21\u7bc4\uff08models for function and Western rationality\uff09\uff0c\u610f\u5473\u8457\u300c\u9032\u6b65\u300d\u7684\u8c61\u5fb5\u3002\u7136\u800c\u5973\u6027\u5247\u662f\u6210\u70ba\u50b3\u7d71\u65e5\u672c\u5473\u7684\u6977\u6a21\uff08models of traditional Japaneseness\uff09\u3002[2]<\/a>\u6771\u4e9e\u6587\u5316\u5b78\u8005Ofra Goldstein-Gidoni\u5728\u65e5\u672c\u548c\u670d\u8207\u5f62\u5851\u6027\u5225\u6587\u5316\u8a8d\u540c\u95dc\u4fc2\u7814\u7a76\u4e2d\u6307\u51fa\uff1a\u300c\u7a7f\u8457\u548c\u670d\u63d0\u4f9b\u4e86\u4e00\u7a2e\u5408\u7406\u7684\u5973\u6027\u4e3b\u7fa9\u89c0\u9ede\uff0c\u5373\u670d\u88dd\u9650\u5236\u4e86\u5973\u6027\u7684\u8eab\u9ad4\uff0c\u4e26\u4e14\u662f\u8b93\u5973\u6027\u8655\u65bc\u5f9e\u5c6c\u5730\u4f4d\u7684\u624b\u6bb5\u3002<\/span>\u300d[3]<\/a>\u5118\u7ba1\u5728\u4e00\u5207\u90fd\u9010\u6b65\u671d\u5411\u73fe\u4ee3\u5316\u767c\u5c55\u7684\u660e\u6cbb\u6642\u4ee3\uff0c\u65c5\u904a\u7d00\u5ff5\u76f8\u518a\u4e2d\u7684\u5973\u6027\u5f62\u8c61\u4ecd\u820a\u662f\u4ee5\u548c\u670d\u7684\u88dd\u626e\u5448\u73fe\uff0c\u548c\u670d\u5973\u6027\u8c61\u5fb5\u7684\u662f\u6771\u65b9\u50b3\u7d71\u4e4b\u7f8e\uff0c\u6a38\u5be6\u3001\u81ea\u7136\uff0c\u53c8\u4ee4\u897f\u65b9\u4eba\u56ae\u5f80\u3002\u85dd\u5993\u3001\u548c\u670d\u3001\u7761\u7f8e\u4eba\uff0c\u4e09\u8005\u80fd\u52fe\u8d77\u9019\u4e9b\u7f8e\u597d\u8cea\u7d20\u7684\u91cd\u8981\u984c\u6750\uff0c\u69cb\u6210\u4e86\u8868\u73fe\u9019\u985e\u6bcd\u984c\u7684\u6587\u5316\u7b26\u78bc\u3002<\/p>\n

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[1]<\/a> \u539f\u6587\uff1a\u201cTo preserve the shape of the hairstyle, I slept on a rectangular lacquered wooden pillow topped with a narrow cushion. At first the pillow kept me awake but I soon got used to it. Other girls found it more difficult. The okiya had a trick to keep us from removing the pillow during the night. The maids would sprinkle rice bran around the pillow. If a girl removed the pillow, bits of bran stuck like glue to the pomade in her hair and the next morning she had to make an unhappy trip back to the hairdressers.\u201d \u5f15\u81eaMineko Iwasaki,<\/em> Geisha: A Life<\/em> (NY: Washington Square Press, 2002), p. 141. \u300c\u7f6e\u5c4b\u300d\uff08okiya\uff09\uff0c\u662f\u85dd\u5993\u6216\u821e\u6280\u5c45\u4f4f\u4e4b\u6240\u3002<\/em>\u5ca9\u5d0e\u5cf0\u5b50\u662f\u4e8c\u6230\u5f8c\u65e5\u672c\u6700\u8457\u540d\u7684\u85dd\u5993\uff0c\u300a\u85dd\u5993\u56de\u61b6\u9304\u300b\u96fb\u5f71\u7576\u4e2d\u7684\u4e3b\u89d2\u4fbf\u662f\u4ee5\u5979\u70ba\u539f\u578b\u3002<\/p>\n

[2]<\/a> Ofra Goldstein-Gidoni, \u201c<\/em>Kimono and the Construction of Gendered and Cultural Identities,\u201d Ethnology<\/em>, 38 (4): 355.<\/p>\n

[3]<\/a> \u539f\u6587\uff1a\u201c<\/em>Wearing kimono invites the plausible feminist view of clothing as restricting the female body, and therefore a device for the subordination of women.\u201d \u540c\u4e0a\u8a3b\uff0c\u9801361\u3002<\/p>\n

\"0002\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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